Its main drag — the Grand Canal — starts at the fish's mouth and winds through the center. You can count on Rick Steves to tell you what you really need to know when visiting the island city of Venice.Following the self-guided tours in this book, you'll explore Venice's most important landmarks and cruise the Grand Canal for a close-up look at the elegant palaces, bridges, and churches. Take a joyride and introduce yourself to Venice by boat. The great Venetian rogue Casanova did time here. In 1948, the American-born heiress retired here in Venice. Venice Lagoon: Zattere waterfront, Italy. Turkey, ©2021 Rick Steves' Europe, Inc. | Ciao! All this precious art is carefully maintained in the church's mosaic workshop. Hi, I'm Rick Steves, back with more of the best of Europe. The style? (Walk down the Accademia side of the canal called Rio San Trovaso; as you approach Giudecca Canal, you'll glimpse the beached gondolas on your right across the canal.). You can pop in to watch Paolo carving both fórcole and traditional oars. These four guys are a favorite of mine. For an ear-shattering experience, be here at the top of the hour. Karel: Deep breath, deep breath…. But, with their natural lagoon defenses, Venetian palazzos could be sumptuous rather than fortified. Saw this hotel on TA & one of Rick Steves' books. But I particularly enjoy seeing art in the setting for which it was designed — that's in situ — like at the Chiesa dei Frari. These work like city buses except that they never get a flat, the stops are docks, and if you get off between stops, you'll drown. You grab it, they sell it from the tail — In this shop the workmen — who needed to be good with wood — were traditionally from Italy's mountains. Rick: The great Venetian rogue Casanova did time…this is so cool, I can't believe it… And in this clip from my public television special Rick Steves’ European Easter , we don masquerade masks to drop in on “Carnevale” festivities in Venice. While there are a number of luxurious big hotels in town, my favorites are the smaller, family-run ones — which combine historic character, a warm and friendly welcome, and plenty of travel tips. In a scene-by-scene storyboard, we see Adam lonely in the garden, the creation of Eve, and then trouble: from apple…to fig leaf…to banishment. I’m one happy dad right now — because both my kids called me today from Europe. Enjoying the views from a vaporetto is the best way to really appreciate the front doors of this historic chorus line of mansions, most from the 14th and 15th centuries. Entire cities made great and desperate deals with God in hopes that he'd spare them from the dreaded disease. Its stunning golden wall of 250 painted enamels features prophets and saints, and, at its center: Jesus, as the Ruler of the Cosmos. The seat of the Venetian government and home of its ruling duke, or doge, this was the most powerful half-acre in Europe for 400 years. They were all about poverty, simplicity, and obedience — with an emphasis on the humanity of Jesus. Terms of Service | Privacy, Venice, Italy: Grand Canal and La Salute Church. In Rick Steves Venice you'll find in-depth Rick-tested information on: . There's no place like it. Rick: By the tail! With astonishing foresight, she assembled a Who's Who of her generation's greatest art. With Rick Steves’ Venice 2007, travelers can experience everything Venice has to offer—economically and hassle-free. The creation dome tells the story of Genesis with Adam and Eve and the original sin. That's why they maintain a refreshing alpine-feel in this delightful little corner of Venice. Alessandro: Yes, yes, to find in the market in the morning. While these are copies, the originals are inside. France Where the Grand Canal opens up into the lagoon stands one of Venice's most distinctive landmarks, the church dedicated to Santa Maria della Salute, Our Lady of Health. Italy Scotland St. Mark's bell tower — or campanile — soars 300 feet over the square. But don't forget, according to Alessandro, you only eat cicchetti so you can have more of the main course: wine. While lots of towns made plague monuments, Venice built this entire church in hopes of surviving a disease that hit in 1630, and within 14 months killed a third of its people. Today, they're back in what Venetians believe is their rightful home. Rialto, which left the politics to San Marco, has long been the commercial district of Venice. It's a fish-shaped island connected to the mainland by a long causeway. For coronavirus (COVID-19) travel information, So much to see, so little time. Among the many palaces you'll see lining the Grand Canal, only one looks modern: the former mansion of Peggy Guggenheim. And the theme is made clear at the high altar: The Virgin Mary is approached for help by a humble Lady Venice. Rick Steves Istanbul Youtube They also have what they call a Give Away Page, which is over two hundred of their most popular titles, audio books, technical books, and books made into movies. Joy riding through the town is one of Europe's unforgettable treats. But all the magic sits on a practical foundation of political and economic might. The group was all smiles, tanned, rested, and ready for their Italian seafood feast. Alessandro is joining us to give our nibbles some meaning. As they've done for a thousand years, artisans here are patiently restoring a damaged piece of mosaic. Europe for Foodies Opponents of the government were dealt with swiftly and decisively. see our FAQ. For centuries, it was nicknamed La Serenissima, "The Most Serenely Beautiful One" — and for good reason. They're built with a slight curve, so that a single oar on the side propels them in a straight line. Debonair guide Alessandro Schezzini is a connoisseur of Venetian bacari — classic old bars serving wine and traditional cicchetti snacks. Nearby stand the imposing gates of the Arsenal — Europe's first great military-industrial complex. Oh, that's an explosion of taste! Mark — looking pretty grumpy after the long voyage — became the city's patron saint, and his symbol, the winged lion, became the symbol of Venice. The city is actually a car-free maze of about 100 islands, laced together by several hundred bridges and a vast web of alleys and canalside walkways. The goods — in the case of this family, furs, salt, cotton, and coffee — came off ships through this loading dock. To help you plan your sightseeing, we've listed our ideal itineraries for Venice, whether you're going for one day, two days, three days, or more. You help yourself, one for you, one for me, a little for you, a little for me, and they try you see, look yeah. Because you can't drive a car in Venice it's perfectly suited to bar hopping like this. The Naval Museum itself (Museo Storico Navale) is very old-school and military-run, but anyone into maritime history or sailing will find its several floors of exhibits interesting. Of all the loot ornamenting this church, its grandest prize is a set of horses, which for centuries looked out over the square. This dramatic bell tower replaced a shorter tower, part of the original fortress that guarded the entry of the Grand Canal. The popular museum of far-out art, housed in the American heiress' former retirement palazzo, offers one of Europe's best reviews of the art of the first half of the 20th century. Venice is a great place to fall in love, enjoy a honeymoon...or a special anniversary. The art of the gondola survives in the quiet back canals. For a break from sightseeing — and a fun meal — explore the back lanes, and pop into a bar serving cicchetti — that's the uniquely Venetian hors d'oeuvres. Travel as a Political Act, England & Wales From his once-lavish (now sparse) quarters, you'll follow the one-way tour through the public rooms of the top floor, finishing with the Bridge of Sighs and the prison. The doge lived with his family on the first floor up, near the halls of power. While the Arsenale is still a military base and is therefore closed to the public, its massive and evocative gate, the Porta Magna, is worth a look (to see the gate, turn left at the Naval Museum and follow the canal). Here in the Senate Hall, nobles gathered to address their colleagues, debate, and pass laws. Venice, more than any other city, is the place to get out early and stay out late — to be swept away. European Travel Skills This was the Venetian Republic's religious and political center: St. Mark's Square, or Piazza San Marco, with the Basilica of St. Mark and the Doge's Palace. To see the work in action, visit the wood-carving shop of Paolo Brandolisio. His bones would be perfect. The long, lofty nave, flooded with light, was ideal for large gatherings to hear sermons. With a shrinking population and in a state of elegant decay, Venice survives on the artificial respirator of tourism. Travel with a Mobile Device Lonely bridges, canals without sidewalks, and reflections of once-upon-a-time grandeur. And, in good medieval style, they come with religious lessons. Today many former palazzos survive as hotels. Scandinavia Here's a breakdown of a few of the must-do's he points out while visiting the city in this episode of "Rick Steves' Europe." We had the great pleasure of hosting American travel writer and television personality Rick Steves in late April. Alessandro: This, this one they are cooked in the oven. Rick: That's a good one! In this episode, Rick Steves explores three historic capitals of Iran: Persepolis, with its splendid monuments; Shiraz, with the tombs of Iran's most beloved poets; and Esfahan, with its extraordinary mosques and endearing people. Alessandro: This is cicchetto…a little thing that you grab with the hand; has to be finger food. The winged lion is the symbol of Mark, the patron saint of Venice. All the full length Rick Steves Europe PBS Episodes that I could find. Alessandro: That's good! Today's boats still come with gondoliers standing up and no rudder or keel. Survey the city by cruising the Grand Canal on a boat called a vaporetto. Join Steves on more European adventures every weekday, as episodes of his travel show air twice a day -- at 5:30 a.m. and again at 7:30 p.m. Start at the Piazza di San Marco Among Europe's churches, St. Mark's is peerless. Every morning, she could sit here on her terrace, sipping her coffee, taking in the Grand Canal, living the Venetian dream. It's customary to stand. Over the high altar, glowing red and gold like a stained-glass window, Titian's Assumption of the Virgin Mary sets the tone of exuberant beauty found in this church. Go behind the camera with Rick and his crew for the shoot of his 2006 Milan and Lake Como episode as Rick shares all the tricks of his trade in TV production. Tintoretto's Triumph of Venice shows the city — always represented blond and virtuous — in heaven among the Greek gods, receiving the wealth of the sea. You'll see the evolution of warships, displays on old fishing boats, and gondolas (all described in English). Tintoretto's monsterpiece, Paradise — the largest oil painting anywhere — reminded lawmakers that making wise decisions would ultimately put you in the company of 500 saints. The interior of the basilica glitters with its gold-leaf mosaic work. Alessandro: It is a small bite, you know, that you normally have when you have a glass of wine with a friend. The Doge's Palace was built to show off the power and wealth of the Republic. See the Travel Details above for recommendations highlighted in bold, excerpted from Rick's guidebooks. Venice, more than any other European city, has a seductive charm. In Donatello's wood carving of St. John the Baptist, the prophet of the desert — dressed in animal skins and almost anorexic from his diet of bugs 'n' honey — announces the coming of the Messiah. Rick Steves' Europe, was his second show which debuted in 2000. With water taxis, police boats, delivery boats, post boats, and over 400 gondoliers all navigating around the churning vaporetti, there's a lot of congestion on the Grand Canal. Rick: Look at that! Find a gondolier whose personality you enjoy, settle on a price, and hop in. )Europe is effectively off-limits to American travelers … Everything we'll see is within a 10-minute walk of the Rialto Bridge and St. Mark's Square. Cruise the Canal Grande all the way to St. Mark's Square, starting at the train station (Ferrovia) or the bus station (Piazzale Roma). The Doge's Palace — the ruling center and residence of Venice's duke — was built to show off the power and wealth of the Republic and to remind visitors that Venice was number one. The show has reached its tenth season to date. This city also has several palaces now functioning as art galleries, which are packed with old Venetian masterpieces. Her dining room, with its original table, is still decorated with masterpieces by Brancusi, Braque, and others. I have taken one tour - and that was the 14 Family Europe Rick steve’s Tour , with one of my three kids ( my 11 yr old daughter ) . Mary then sends an angel baby to drive away Old Lady Plague. She married the painter Max Ernst. A gondola ride is a traditional must for romantics. Its domes and elaborate exterior remind us of Venice's close ties with the Greek, Byzantine, and Muslim worlds. Along with a powerful collection of weapons — state of the art in its day — it comes with some fun curiosities: tiny crossbows, thumbscrews, and a particularly effective chastity belt. Ride the elevator 325 feet to the top of the bell tower for the best view in Venice (especially at sunset). And she supported young artists, helping turn a struggling Jackson Pollock — with his Abstract Expressionism — into a celebrity. +39-041-522-4064). The grandest of these is the Rialto. You can see Venice's most picturesque gondola workshop (from the outside; it's not open to the public) in the Accademia neighborhood. While it didn't have vast land holdings, Venice was a mighty trading empire — built upon a network of ports and a mastery of the sea. Alessandro: These are fantastic. ... VOLTERRA on Italy's Great Hill Towns by Rick Steves by VolterraTelevision. From the outside, it's a riot of domes, columns, and statues, completely unlike the towering Gothic churches of northern Europe or the heavy Baroque of much of the rest of Italy. For me, this church offers the best art-appreciation experience in Venice, because so much of its great art is in situ — right where it was designed to be seen, rather than hanging in museums. Mark”. Rick: And it can make a small meal. His weekly public radio program, Travel with Rick Steves first aired in 2005 and is still successfully running. Because of its former wealth, Venice is a city of palaces. Boats come by every few minutes, so you can hop off and on all along the way. I'd call it "Early Ransack.". The basilica is decorated with a ragtag assortment of mismatched columns and statues from different eras, much of it pillaged from Venice's rivals. They're cleaning and resetting old stones and cutting new ones as necessary — all according to the exact medieval original. see our FAQ. Spain The city's ceremonial front door was unfortified and faced the sea. According to the romantic legend, gazing out the window, prisoners tried to enjoy their last view of Venetian beauty, sighed…and were taken to their cell. Rick started his first television show, Travels in Europe With Rick Steves, which aired from 1991 to 1998. The city's main thoroughfare is busy with traffic. It's perfect for a romantic anniversary, and owner Matteo makes guests feel like royalty. Then, after a quick glide down this canal, the vessel was completely outfitted and ready to bolster Venetian dominance of the Mediterranean. Rick Steves is on Facebook, Instagram, Pinterest, YouTube, and you can follow @RickSteves on Twitter. Beat the crowds and enjoy the crisp morning air at 9:00 or the cool evening breeze at 18:00 (but closes earlier in winter, tel. Rick Steves, Venice Bites Updates . The Christian symbolism is unfamiliar to Western eyes, done in the style of Byzantine icons and even Islamic designs. Sign in to YouTube. A palace served all the family's needs — import/export warehouse at water level, business offices above that, and plush living quarters above that — all under one roof. Andy FaceTimed me from the Cinque Terre, and I got to wave to 25 happy travelers on the Rick Steves Best of Europe in 21 Days Tour he is leading. After sorting through the monuments of Venice's powerful past, we'll cruise the Grand Canal and be dazzled by masterpieces of the Venetian Renaissance. Older than most of Europe's churches, it feels like a remnant of a lost world. Terms of Service | Privacy. Their counterparts on the mainland had to fortify their places with heavy stone and tall towers. This prison — with its discouraging bars — held commoners and nobles alike. Can't afford a private gondola? Germany & Austria Titian's complex composition draws you upward — from man on earth, to triumphant Mary, and on up as she rises to join God in heaven. Posted on March 24, 2020 April 29, 2020 Daily Dose of Europe: Piero’s Venice My guidebooks outline a stop-by-stop tour, as does my free audio tour of the canal. Alessandro says it's alright to just point at what you want, but your selection will be limited to what's fresh from the market that day. To navigate over shifting sand bars, the boats were flat-bottomed, and the captains stood up to see. Iran's rich history goes back millennia, to the days when Persepolis was home to "the king of kings." Gondolas are moored everywhere. With a huge span and foundations stretching about 200 yards on either side, it was an engineering marvel back in the 1500s. At its peak, in the early 15th century, of its 180,000 citizens, nearly 1,000 were fabulously wealthy. Video: Carnival in Venice It’s Carnival time! She made her mark as a friend, patron — and lover — of modern artists. Along the way we'll feast on Venetian treats, get a splash of modern art, then glide on a gondola through this city of elegant decay. Photo credit: Courtesy of Rick Steves. Alessandro: By the tail, and you eat it, just you want, they are fantastic…dopo di me! But my local friend Piero has a knack for explaining the real Venice. It WAS more expensive than travelling independently , and was in fact only part of our 28 day visit to Europe . In the Dorsoduro district, you can visit the workshop of Saverio Pastor, another fórcola maker, who has scale models for sale one canal east of the Peggy Guggenheim Collection; detour south along Fondamenta Soranzo de la Fornace to #341). The "Church of the Friars" was built by the Franciscan order and the art that decorates it feels warmed by the spirit of St. Francis. In this first of two episodes on Venice, we'll sample the splendor of the Doge in his palace, take a pilgrimage to St. Mark's Basilica, see some famous horses, enjoy a grand but noisy view, feast on Venetian treats, get a splash of modern art, be dazzled by masterpieces of the Venetian Renaissance, and get intimate with the city of Casanova...on a gondola. Rick: So this is representative of what Francisco found in the market good this morning. Here, Bellini places them in a physical setting so beautiful it creates its own mood of serene holiness. Plagues decimated communities throughout Europe. He organizes two-hour Venetian pub tours (better to book by email than by phone). Venice's sleek and graceful gondolas are a symbol of the city. Rick: Mmm. Thanks for joining us. Took this tour about 12 years ago . Traveling New Hampshire Rick Steves style, we’d miss out on seeing the tower of flame that rose to our fifth story apartment window in Rome when a certain organization set a luxury car on fire. To enhance your art experience, you can find a clip related to this artwork at Rick Steves Classroom Europe; just search for “St. And each walnut fórcula — the stylized oarlock — is like a sculpture: hand crafted, one of a kind, and honoring the city's heritage. It features the work of three great Renaissance masters: Donatello, Giovanni Bellini, and Titian — each showing worshippers the glory of God in human terms. And, until the 16th century, when explorers like Vasco da Gama and Columbus opened up the world leaving Venice stuck in a geographic hole, Venice did dominate. Alessandro: When you come here to the bar, you have to order what they find in the market in the morning; has to be fresh. The golden archangel Gabriel at the top always faces into the wind. Alessandro's tours include sampling cicchetti with wines at three different bacari. The remains of St. Mark lie beneath the high altar. Alessandro: With your finger, with your wine, yeah. Its formidable navy saw lots of action. Palaces like these remind us that Venetian merchants amassed lots of capital. The church is covered with glass and gold mosaics. Verona, Italy: Joy of the Veneto by Rick Steves' Europe. You can walk across it, from head to tail, in about an hour. Iceland The Arsenal put the "fear of Venice" into visiting rulers. I feel like I'm, uh…I feel like the village idiot but I'm smiling! ©2021 Rick Steves' Europe, Inc. | Inside is a decor of mosaics, colored marbles, and oriental treasures that's rarely seen elsewhere. Get inspired with Rick Steves’ recommended places to go and things to do, with tips, photos, videos, and travel information on Venice. Venice, more than any other European city, has an endlessly seductive charm. You may see construction work being done to strengthen the base of the rebuilt tower. Crown-shaped La Salute was the crowning achievement of architect Baldassare Longhena (who also did St. Mark's Square's "new" wing and the Ca' Rezzonico), and the last grand Venetian structure built before Venice's decline began. On every square is a surprise, and around each corner is an excuse to savor the unique charms of the city. (Here's hoping that very soon, Venice will once again be crowded. European Cruising 101 There were 120 doges over 1,100 years. The vast Hall of the Great Council could host a meeting of 2,500 nobles. For coronavirus (COVID-19) travel information, The Franciscans, inspired by St. Francis, were non-materialists — part of a reform movement that spread across Europe in the early 1200s. These are the videos that Rick posts on his blog, where he shares his travel experiences, candid opinions, and what's on his mind. Ireland Located in Italy, at the north end of the Adriatic Sea, is Venice. The Grand Canal cuts Venice in half, and has only four bridges. Thanks for joining us. The entrance hall features an elaborate and cohesive series of Old Testament scenes. And talk about well-traveled: According to legend, they were cast for Alexander the Great in the fourth century B.C., taken by Nero to Rome, then brought by Constantine to his new capital in the East, Constantinople. With mountains of capital, plenty of traders with ready ships, and an awesome military, Venice was a commercial powerhouse — one of the six biggest cities in Europe. ... Venice, Italy: A Boat Tour of the Lagoon by Rick Steves' Europe. Sign in. The Republic's fortified shipyard, with 3,000 workers using an early form of assembly-line production and standardized parts, it could produce one warship a day. Originally, Venice had two major centers of power: one at San Marco, and one here at Rialto. 25:05. To cross the Grand Canal where there's no bridge handy, save time and energy by hopping a traghetto — one of the ferry gondolas, which shuttle pedestrians back and forth at strategic locations. The most lavish face the Grand Canal. While this prison was considered relatively comfortable in its day, wasting away in here, with so much beauty so close, must have been a particularly cruel punishment. They were a huge concern. 2:17. 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