It was a wonderful experience. Thank you, Aloha Joe, for posting your wonderfully concise and well-written trip report. My wife showed up around 8:30pm and said the security line was still long. The spirit of charity is especially alive in this neighborhood, which has come together for a special holiday meal. Domes and ancient obelisks still serve as markers lacing together relics and sacred stops, including the tomb of St. Peter — marked by the greatest dome anywhere. From England to Wales, France, Norway, Germany, Austria, Switzerland, and Italy, you'll see the bright Christmas markets, hear local choirs, share holiday traditions with families…and even play in the snow. They're delivering another Christmas treat — panettone - a rich brioche made with raisins and citrus — to older folks who have no family nearby. I didn't make dinner reservations as most restaurants close by 11:00pm and I wasn't sure what time we'd get out. Contemporary My Account . $49.99. I think I saw your family there in the congregation! What can we do on Christmas day, assuming all restaurants, etc. It could very well be the best trip you ever make. Created with Sketch. At the east end of the shoreline is a very convenient parking lot. We saw (and recorded) the Pope walk up and down the aisle. ? We had a fun late night dinner in a small local restaurant where the owner was also the waiter, chef and dish washer. My Account . This was a special exhibit that was open on Christmas Day featuring 100 of them. It's a reminder that through the ages Italy's humble shepherds entertained the faithful as they gathered by fires to warm themselves and await the arrival of Christmas. $9.99 . I incorrectly assumed that this was the gate just to the left of St Peters that you pass when you exit St Peters Cathedral that usually has a few Swiss Guards standing guard. Posted by Kristin (Hutchinson, MN, USA) on 07/22/12 05:31 PM. As I researched further, I came to realize that there were a lot of activities unique to the holiday period in the different areas and towns but no single source of information that listed out all (or most) of the festivities or anything close to a how to guide. And through the ages pilgrims have stopped here at the Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore. To celebrate the season, I’m sharing clips, extras and behind-the-scenes notes from Rick Steves’ European Christmas. The next day we drove to Assisi. We did an afternoon tour of the Jewish Ghetto and Trastevere and took a rest. What could have been a nightmare turned out to be OK. We arrived at Paestum around noon and went immediately to the museum. How nice you had (mostly) good weather. I faxed in my request in March and a few weeks later I received what looks like a hand typed letter notifying me I had five tickets reserved for me and with instructions on how to pick them up. At about 9:00pm, all the lights were turned on inside the Basilica. by Rick Steves | Dec 24, 2013. Possibly the best meal I had in Italy. The festivities, while low-key, are memorable. It's a joyful occasion and by all accounts those doing the giving feel as blessed as those they feed. We happened upon a special treat at Civita di Bagnoregio. I saw a lot of discussion on the internet regarding the age requirement. Luckily the ZTL was not in effect on Saturday morning so I was able to drive right in. Rick doesn't give much time to Salerno in his book so I wasn't sure what to expect. We drove to Siena stopping in Orvieto and Civita di Bagnoregio. The Streets were filled with a market of local crafts and the town was filled with local people. These children are flip-flopping the gift-giving tradition. It was a wild ride for about 10 minutes. For anyone visiting Civita di Bagnoregio next year, check the calendar and try to visit on the Christmas Weekends if they host the market again. Our tour guide let us out in the grotto under the alter. Italy, home of Vatican City and the Catholic Church, celebrates Christmas with manger scenes, sacred music, special foods (such as eel for dinner), and holiday markets. We stopped at Tenuta Vannulo, the one where they supposedly massage the cows and have them sleep on mattresses. You need to request ticket far in advance. Included are 14 complete live concert performances of music. My experience was if your child looks (and acts) young, you will be asked for ID. I had researched that Salerno had a great Christmas light display (Luci d' Artista) and a Christmas market along the shoreline. To celebrate the season, I’m sharing clips, extras, and behind-the-scenes notes from Rick Steves’ European Christmas. Our daughter is spending the year studying abroad in Florence, Italy and we have plans to visit her over Christmas break. Closures of museums, etc? I had also come across a Christmas light display in Salerno that was supposed to be one of the best in southern Italy. Enjoy all of Rick Steves' TV shows on DVD, Travel as a Political Act as an 8-CD audio book, music from Rick Steves' European Christmas on CD, and special DVD/book gift sets! It had a few more tourists but was still uncrowded and welcoming. It wasn't bad and I would do it again. ©2021 Rick Steves' Europe, Inc. | Terms of Service | Privacy Policy. He was right. From there, the road twists and turns, almost like the Amalfi coast road. Does anybody have experiences and suggestions as to what goes on in Italy at this time? The next day was empty and most shops were closed by 9:00pm. We'd use Sorrento as a home base for the few days we were staying. ‎Show Rick Steves' European Christmas (video), Ep Part 5: Italy - 8 Dec 2006 The drive hugs the outer walls of Paestum and gives you an idea of just how big the site is. I had made a lunch reservation at a local place not far away (il Clementini). If you are visiting Paestum and can wake up early enough, I would try the tour. The off season hours of operation for various sites are pretty well documented but when it comes to the holidays, you have to check the opening and closing time carefully. Christmas in Italy. St. Francis knew that by putting Jesus in a place people would recognize - their own neighborhood — the faithful could relate more easily to the story of his birth. Perhaps even stay the night. In Italy, on Epiphany, La Befana, a popular Christmas witch, flies over … There was a huge Christmas tree in the town center and all the streets were adorned with lights and decorations. Rick Steves: Europe's best Christmas traditions. Rick Steves' new edition of his classic European Christmas book will be a hit with his fans and an eye-opener for those not familiar with his work. Nearby there is a large controlled parking lot that puts you right at the start of the Christmas market. Filming Christmas in Europe: The story behind the special On Epiphany, Befana the witch brings candy…or coal. A tip for anyone who ends up standing. With that information, I began to assemble my itinerary. The Christmas season in Europe stretches for well over a month - not to maximize shopping season but to fit in the season's many holy days: Advent starts four Sundays before Christmas Eve. If you really want to good seat for the service, you need to get there 5-6 hours before. This post was published on the now-closed HuffPost Contributor platform. Tour Account › Travel Forum › Home / Travel Forum / Italy / Christmas in Italy; Please sign in to post. As a side note, the weather for the entire trip was perfect. Our next stop was Florence by way of San Gimignano and Volterra. Children ask Babbo Natale for gifts. The tour was excellent and well worth it. Rome was alive but not crowded and like Sorrento, reasonably empty of tourists. As host, writer, and producer of the popular and long-running American Public Television series Rick Steves' Europe, and through his travel books, he encourages Americans to become what he calls "temporary locals." I've always had a love/hate relationship with Florence. I especially appreciated your detailed description of your family's participation at the Christmas Eve Mass at St. Peter's Basilica. I'm guessing this was to configure the lighting for the TV coverage. If you are at all considering it, I highly recommend you do it. From England to Norway, Burgundy to Bavaria, Rome to the top of the Swiss Alps, locals brimming with holiday cheer celebrate Christmas in seven European countries, including a very memorable Christmas Eve Mass at St. Peter's in Rome. Explore Italy! I like this report even better now that you've consolidated it into one thread - thanks for making the effort, it's much more readable now. Unlike all the other cities and towns we visited, Florence was crowded. Between visiting their manger scenes and Christmas witches, many Italians are shopping for their big Christmas Eve dinner. I am taking notes as one of my travel dreams is to spend Christmas in Rome. Crowded with tourists. I haven't been to southern Italy yet, and you included some great tips. Thank you for your insights on holiday travel. Bottles, trash, debris everywhere. It really is a special time to be there. Excellent food, very reasonable prices. We ended up waiting a bit for the town to come alive. Most bits of information I could find were sporadic trip reports of individual accounts on the internet. The suggestions I had gotten about the Christmas Eve service was that unless you are willing to show up at least six hours early, don't expect to get a seat close enough to see the Pope during the service. I can't stress enough how much better the experience is walking an uncrowded site in 60 degree weather. There was some local festival going on the weekend after Christmas and New Year’s. The nativity is at the entrance on the left as you face the altar. For centuries, pilgrims have hiked from all over Christendom to this great city. The highlight is the Tomb of the Diver. As anywhere, Christmas in Rome is a time of giving. We ended up running back out and over to the Scavi entrance and entered just in time. Lesson learned, don't rent a car and then try to drive in the city. Learn about Rick Steves' small-group tours with more than 40 great itineraries for 2021! To celebrate the season, I’m sharing clips, extras, and behind-the-scenes notes from my one-hour special, “Rick Steves’ European Christmas.” In Rome, from Piazza Navona’s Christmas market to the ultimate manger scene in front of St. Peter’s Basilica, the city was bursting with Christmas traditions. I was surprised by the last part of the drive. Rick Steves' European Christmas: Italy. The next day we took a drive from Sorrento to my ancestor's hometown of San Potito Ultra and stopped in Salerno on the way home. This is where the trip planning started to get a little tricky. I had booked the Vatican scavi tour (the tour under the Vatican where you see the bones of St Peter) for 3:30pm and I also needed to pick up tickets for Christmas Eve mass. (Men throwing cake and speaking in Italian.). We had a wonderful Christmas Eve dinner and went to bed that night having experienced something we'll remember forever. A note about the Scavi tour. Only 20% has been excavated. It very well may be the best trip of your life. Some people insisted that everyone must be 15 and if they look young they will be asked for ID. Posted by rnacramp on 01/21/15 06:58 AM. We followed the GPS in the car and ended up on the south side of the main strip where the entrance and museum are located. Being in Ercolano and feeling like you have the place to yourself really gives you a different, more immersive experience. A word of advice, don't rent a car and drive back into the city. We had purchase food at the local grocery store earlier. The vast basilica was packed, the pope seemed radiant, and our cameraman put our viewers right in the front pew. Jump to bottom. For the most part, the drive is highway until the last five miles or so. While providing a bright spot in this grandma's day, the child experiences the joy of giving. I had read about Rome and the precepe (nativity) scenes everywhere and of course Christmas Eve mass at the Vatican. Hopefully this report can be a source of information and encouragement for anyone considering being in Italy at Christmas time. We were able to climb the tower with no wait. Once you pass Pompeii, the route veers to the right and enter a series of tunnels. I loved your very detailed report. I grabbed my 13 year old son and held on. After our visit to Ercolano, we drove to Sorrento. As we waited the mob grew deeper and deeper behind us. We ended up waiting (30 minutes) in the general security line to the right that everyone passes through to enter St Peters and almost missed our entrance time for the tour. $14.99. The highlight was filming the Midnight Mass at the Vatican on Christmas Eve — which happened to be Pope John … When we visited a few years back, we were able to tour their displays and it was clear that the Italians go to great lengths to decorate and celebrate Christmas. Walking around the town with the Christmas decorations was magical. On our way out, we passed by Pizza della Signoria. European Christmas Music CD. A tip for anyone visiting Paestum. Saved from youtube.com. Festive Fun: Rick and his crew experienced 12 carol concerts, 11 mugs of Glühwein, 10 living mangers, 9 happy families, 8 Christmas feasts, 7 Euro-cultures, 6 mistletoe kisses, 5 alternative Santas, 4 pounds of weight gain, 3 midnight Masses, 2 exhausted cameramen, and a very merry Christmas for one and all (go ahead, sing it)! This visit was no exception. Thanks again for this detailed and well-written report. By Rick Steves, Contributor. This is the tour run by the Excavations Office of the Vatican Visits that visits the Tomb of Saint Peter and the Necropolis under the Vatican Basilica. (photo: Rick Steves) Families enjoy Piazza Navona's Christmas market. Sacred music and prayer infuse this tranquil landscape. We then proceeded to walk the site. 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